Many assume “waterproof” means safe anywhere. But misunderstanding IP ratings like IP44, IP65, or IP67 often leads to wrong product choices and early failures.

IP65 downlights are dust-tight and resist low-pressure water jets. That makes them suitable for wet indoor areas and light outdoor exposure. But not for high-pressure cleaning or submersion.

How does IP65 compare with IP44, IP55, and IP67 ratings?

IP ratings define how well a fixture resists dust and water. The first digit (0–6) means solid particle protection¹. The second digit (0–9) covers water resistance². Here’s how common ratings stack up.

Rating	Dust Protection	Water Protection	Typical Use Cases	Key Difference from IP653
IP44	≥ 1 mm object entry	Splash-proof (from any direction)	Indoor damp areas (not direct spray)	Can’t handle jets or washdowns
IP54	Limited dust ingress	Splash-resistant	Sheltered outdoor zones	Weaker than IP653, not for direct water exposure
IP653	Dust-tight	Low-pressure water jets	Kitchens, washrooms, outdoor soffits	Balanced protection for indoor/outdoor wet zones
IP66	Dust-tight	Strong jets and high-pressure sprays	Exterior walls, car parks, kitchens	Tougher against pressure and cleaning chemicals
IP67	Dust-tight	Short-term water immersion (1m, 30 min)	Poolsides, landscape, buried fixtures	Handles flooding, not just spraying
IP68+	Dust-tight	Long-term immersion, high-pressure jets	Pools, fountains, industrial washdowns	Far stronger than IP653, for harsh conditions

From this, IP65³ sits in the middle. It’s strong, but not enough for extreme water or full submersion.

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Which IP rating is recommended for bathrooms vs outdoor areas?

You can’t use one rule for all. It depends on where and how water reaches the light. Here’s how I break it down for clients:

Use IP44 in dry or lightly damp indoor areas. For example, ceiling lights far from showers.

Use IP65 in bathroom ceilings near showers, kitchen ceilings, or semi-open corridors. It’s also good for soffit lights and entryways exposed to rain.

Use IP66 in food prep zones with daily washdowns or for outdoor spots facing strong storms.

Use IP67 or above for fixtures near ground level that could be flooded, or anywhere with standing water risk.

Area	Minimum IP Rating	Reason
Bathroom ceiling (near shower)	IP65	Humid air and water spray
Hotel vanity area	IP44	Low splash risk
Restaurant kitchen	IP66	Jet cleaning and steam exposure
Car park soffits	IP65	Outdoor exposure, water jets
Poolside or near drains	IP67	Temporary immersion during cleaning or storms
Garden buried lights	IP68	Constant water contact

What are the benefits of choosing IP65 over lower ratings?

IP65 fixtures give you solid protection—without overpaying for unnecessary waterproofing. They balance performance and cost for most commercial use cases.

You get full dust protection⁴, so no internal buildup that affects performance. You get water jet protection⁵, which means you can install them in kitchens, wet ceilings, or semi-exterior ceilings with peace of mind. Lower ratings like IP44 may save money upfront, but fail in just one rainy season or after a few washdowns.

If you’re lighting a hotel washroom cluster, restaurant overhang, or office bathroom ceiling, IP65 is the safe default. You don’t need IP67 unless there’s a flooding risk. IP65 gives you a durable base level of moisture and dust protection for most dry and wet zones.

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Are there situations where IP65 is not sufficient?

Yes. And I’ve seen projects go wrong by trusting the label too much. You must look beyond the IP number to how it’s actually built.

An IP65 rating doesn’t guarantee water stays out forever. If the gasket is cheap, the housing isn’t sealed well, or the driver isn’t protected, water still gets in. I’ve seen “IP65” lights fail in six months because of bad sealing, poor vent design, or cracked glue joints.

IP65 also can’t survive full cleaning with steam or strong pressure. And it can’t handle water immersion⁶. So in car washes, food factories, swimming pool areas, or low-mounted outdoor lights—IP65 is not enough. You need IP66 for pressure jets and IP67+ for immersion.

Always check the full design: how the light seals the LED, the driver, and the cable entry. Does it have vent channels or drain holes? Are the seals UV- and heat-resistant? Only then is IP65 “real.”

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Conclusion

IP65 gives solid water and dust protection for most indoor wet areas and light outdoor use. But you must verify build quality—and upgrade to IP66+ if facing pressure or immersion risks.